Socialisation
We begin socialisation from birth as we weigh the pups regularly, once they get to 3 days old and up to 16 days old we do early neurological stimulation (ENS). If during this process they show any signs of distress or they struggle it would never be forced upon them. They have to be relaxed.
Explaining what Early Neurological Stimulation is [ENS}
Newborn pups are uniquely different than adults in several respects. When born their eyes are closed and their digestive system has a limited capacity requiring periodic stimulation by their dam who routinely licks them in order to promote digestion. At this age they are only able to smell, suck, and crawl. Body temperature is maintained by snuggling close to their mother or by crawling into piles with other littermates. During these first few weeks of immobility researchers noted that these immature and under-developed canines are sensitive to a restricted class of stimuli which includes thermal, and tactile stimulation, motion and locomotion.
Five benefits have been observed in canines that were exposed to the Bio Sensor stimulation exercises.
The benefits noted were:
- Improved cardio vascular performance (heart rate)
- Stronger heart beats
- Stronger adrenal glands
- More tolerance to stress
- Greater resistance to disease
In tests of learning, stimulated pups were found to be more active and were more exploratory than their non- stimulated littermates over which they were dominant in competitive situations.
Secondary effects were also noted regarding test performance. In simple problem solving tests using detours in a maze, the non-stimulated pups became extremely aroused, whined a great deal, and made many errors. Their stimulated littermates were less disturbed or upset by test conditions and when comparisons were made, the stimulated littermates were more calm in the test area, made fewer errors and gave only an occasional distress when stressed.
The five exercises are as follows. The duration of each of the five exercises is 3-5 seconds.
- Tactical stimulation(between toes)
Holding the pup in one hand, the handler gently stimulates (tickles) the pup between the toes on any one foot using a Q-tip. It is not necessary to see that the pup is feeling the tickle. - Head held erect
Using both hands, the pup is held perpendicular to the ground, (straight up), so that its head is directly above its tail. This is in an upwards position. - Head pointed down
Holding the pup firmly with both hands the head is reversed and is pointed downward, towards the ground. - Supine position
Hold the pup so that its back is resting in the palm of both hands with its muzzle facing the ceiling. The pup while on its back is allowed to sleep struggle. - Thermal stimulation
Use a damp towel that has been cooled in a refrigerator for at least five minutes. Place the pup on the towel, feet down. Do not restrain it from moving.
These five exercises will produce neurological stimulations, none of which naturally occur during this early period of life. Experience shows that sometimes pups will resist these exercises, others will appear unconcerned. In either case a caution is offered to those who plan to use them. Do not repeat them more than once per day and do not extend the time beyond that recommended for each exercise. Over stimulation of the neurological system can have adverse and detrimental results? These exercises impact the neurological system by kicking it into action earlier than would be normally expected. The result being an increased capacity that later will help to make the difference in its performance. Those who play with their pups and routinely handle them should continue because the neurological exercises are not substitutions for routine handling, play socialization or bonding.
Their eyes and ears will begin to open around 10 days old and that’s when we start to hang colourful toys around the whelping bed. The radio plays classic fm as background noise and we talk to them all the time. As soon as they are able to come out of the whelping box we begin toilet training. Generally by the time our pups are 6 weeks old 90% of the time they use the potty area.
We like them to enjoy the feel of different materials under their paws from vet bed to noodle mats, and outside they get to experience grass, stones and concrete, all of this is a form of desensitization. Another form is sound.… this is very important, outdoor life can be a scary place for a small puppy, there will be all sorts of noises to experience, some quite loud too so we see it as our job to help them prepare. We use Dogs trust, they have a great desensitization sound therapy page with free music for you to play to your puppies to help them adjust to life in the big wide world. It really works ! we introduce these sounds gradually on a low setting during times of enrichment as this then helps as a distraction while the sound is playing in the background, this is a real effective way of preparing your puppy for hearing distressing,loud, scary noises to help them adapt to life as your family pet. Here is the link for you to take a look at, it would be beneficial to continue with the noise desensitization once you get your puppy home.
https://www.dogstrust.org.uk/help-advice/dog-behaviour-health/sound-therapy-for-pets
Grooming
Preparation for going to the groomers and being groomed by you is a big part of owning an Australia labradoodle, their coats demand alot of attention, more so if you like the longer look, regular brushing is essential to keep them in top condition and knot free. We place them on our grooming table when trimming around their eyes and sanitary area, this is when we brush them and give them a general feel for getting pampered. Keeping your Australian labradoodle looking in great condition is time consuming but rewarding if you can do it yourself. However if this is something you can’t do or wouldn’t want to risk ruining the look of your labradoodle then using a groom professional is the best route to take, this could potentially cost you around £45 to £70 every 6-8 weeks. Having the right tools for the job is also essential, Many people don’t realise that there is a specific way for grooming your labradoodle, just gliding over the coat with a brush will not get down to the root of the hair and prevent any mats from forming. Areas more prone to matting are under the armpits, behind the ears, the chest and under the neck.
Line grooming is the correct way to brush your pet, if you take your dog to the groomer and you haven’t done this form of grooming i promise you when you get your dog back she will look like a completely different dog with very short hair! Groomers just do not have the time to de mat your dog so out will come the clippers, i have a lovely owner of an English labradoodle who thought she was doing a great job brushing her dog, when he came back from the groomer she thought he belonged to someone else as she didn’t recognise him, she was mortified.. Having the right tools for the job is also essential, Many people don’t realise that there is a specific way for grooming your labradoodle, just gliding over the coat with a brush will not get down to the root of the hair and prevent any mats from forming. Areas more prone to matting are under the armpits,behind the ears, the chest and under the neck.
If on a walk your pet gets wet wait until the coat is dry prior to brushing as the hair could break. Simply use the slicker brush once dry.Tools required are a slicker brush and a metal comb with wide and narrow teeth at either end.
How to line groom
Separate your dogs coat with your hand so you can see the skin, brush and comb all the way to the skin. Work backwards from the feet up to the body, and the tail to the head. Brush in the direction of the hair, but add small amounts of coat to each stroke.
We have 4 lovely little grandchildren of various ages who regularly come and play with our litters (can’t decide who enjoys it more the puppies or the kids )This is great for us as it helps them become used to being around small humans, preparation is key where children are concerned and if pups are going to new homes with small children they will definately be prepared!!
Outdoors they have play tunnels and colourful toys to enjoy and get to experience different surroundings and objects.
We like to take them for short car rides to try and avoid motion sensitivity and we also just sit in the car with the engine running and listen to music.
Individual puppy play is also very important, getting them used to being separate from mum and their litter mates helps prepare them for their new homes.